Saturday, 26 September 2015
Thursday, 30 July 2015
Buddha Parikrama
My first brush with Buddha happened when I was just twelve
years old, through a lesson in our Hindi textbook. I was not happy with the way
he left his wife and newborn son and went to seek answers to his seemingly
inane questions. Thus began my quest about Buddha. It has been more than three
decades now and my fascination about this great philosopher has turned into
deep respect. Some years ago, I met a few people who were also equally intensely
charged about Buddha – one of them was a Korean. We decided to travel the
Buddha circuit, see and feel all the places visited by Buddha – from Lumbini,
where he was born to Kushinagar, where he passed away – though not in the same
order.
The long journey
began from Delhi by train to Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. After visiting the
Kashi Vishwanath temple, we went to the ghats of the river Ganga. Buddha came crossing the Ganga to the ghats
of Kashi, as it was known then, from Bodh Gaya, after attaining enlightenment,
looking for his five companions who had abandoned him earlier. Early morning
with the rising sun if you cross the river and go to the other side, from where
you get a panoramic view of the ghats … it is not difficult to imagine Buddha
walking alone on those sands…
From Varanasi we took a jeep to the nearby city of Sarnath.
Rishipattana, the Deer Park, in Sarnath, was where Buddha found his
ex-companions. Chaukhandi Stupa marks the spot where he first met them. It is a
derelict monument, but once you manage to climb up to the top, you are able to
see the Dhamekh Stupa at a diatance. A magnificent monument the sheer size of
which makes you feel very small literally and figuratively, Dhamekh Stupa was
built by Ashoka to mark the spot where Buddha preached Dharmachakraparivartana
for the first time to his five followers and started the sangha.
In the came complex, Dharmarajika Stupa, now in ruins, marks
the site where Buddha gave his first sermon. Remains of a massive Ashokan
pillar mark the exact location. And Mulgandhakuti Vihara is the place where
Buddha meditated during the monsoons. It enshrines the relics found in Taxila.
Suddenly the realisation hit us that we have entered the world of Buddha. The
peace, the monks… there was a certain sanctity in the whole environment.
Our next halt was at Bodh Gaya in Bihar. Known as Uruvela
earlier, it is situated on the banks of river Phalgu (ancient Niranjana). On
the banks of the river, under the Bodhi tree, for 49 days Buddha sat facing the
east, till he attained enlightenment. Bodh Gaya jolted us back to the present,
with its beggars accosting the tourists, pavements spilling over with vendors
selling rosaries, incense, Buddha images et al. The roadside dhabas selling
chai-pakoras were no different from any tourist spot.
A little away from the main city, in the Pragbodhi caves, on
the Brahmayoni hill, Buddha practiced severe austerities for 6 years. After
which Sujata, the daughter of the village chief of Senani, offered him a bowl
of kheer. Sujata’s village, her house, are not a part of the regular tourist
circuit, so not very many people get to see them. We were lucky to have a
Professor of Buddhist studies as a guide taking us to these beautiful spots
where as we listened to him telling us the story of Sujata, we could actually
feel the presence of Buddha. After all it was here that he became Buddha!
The famous Mahabodhi temple in the city of Bodh Gaya has
seven spots within its precincts, including the Bodhi tree, which are sacred
because Buddha spent a week each here, soon after his enlightenment. The Bodhi
tree here is said to have been planted from a sapling from the original tree –
under which Buddha attained enlightenment. The entire temple complex seems like
a small monastery, with monks all over, praying, chanting, meditating… the
vibrations make you sit, and if not pray, just watch the others praying – and
suddenly you realise that you have begun praying too.
Overcoming the temptation of revisiting the Mahabodhi
temple, after having being there twice already in a day, we set out for Rajgir.
The roads, or lack of them, reminded us constantly that we were in Bihar.
Indiscriminate stopping of vehicles on the roads by lathi-weilding villagers
got scary at times. But then we had two hard-core Biharis with us who were
adept in handling such unpleasant situations. Known as Rajgriha back then,
Rajgir was the capital of Bimbisara. After renouncing his royal heritage,
Siddhartha came to this city first seeking salvation. Bimbisara offered half of
his kingdom to him if he stayed back. Siddhartha declined promising to return
after getting enlightened. He did that.
Rajgir the city was not as commercial as Bodh Gaya and
neither as dirty, but again there was a pervading sense of unease in the
evening and night. We had a security guard with us throughout our brief stay.
In the rock cut caves of the Griddhakuta hill, in Rajgir, Buddha spent many
rainy seasons meditating. Here he preached the Lotus Sutra and the Wisdom
Sutra. Here Devadutta tried to kill him by hurling a boulder at him; and also
by sending a mad elephant to him. Close by is Jivakamravana vihara, a mango
grove presented to the Buddha by Jivaka, the royal physician. Only ruins remain
indicating the existence of a monastery once. The only pace in Rajgir where one
gets transported back to Buddha is Venuvana vihara, a bamboo grove, where
Buddha used to bathe in the Karanda tank. After Buddha attained
mahaparinirvana, the first Buddhist council was held in Rajgir to codify his
teachings.
Our next halt was Nalanda, the most renowned university of
ancient India. Buddha came here often and stayed at Setthi Pavarika’s mango
grove. Sariputra, one of Buddha’s very close disciples, attained nirvana here.
To call the ruins of Nalanda impressive would be grossly understating the fact.
They told us that besides what can be seen today, there is a lot more still
unexcavated at Nalanda. Standing atop the ruins of one of the hostels in the
Nalanda campus, hearing that in its heydays a hundred subjects were taught here
to students from all over the world was a proud moment indeed. Our Korean
friend was busy clicking photographs. But it was not possible to capture the
magnitude of the fact that once hundreds of students were living and studying
here, in a well-planned, well-designed university campus. We felt blessed in
being a part of such glorious heritage.
Situated on the banks of Ganga, Patna, once known as
Pataliputra, was our next destination. Ajatashatru built a fort here, which the
Buddha saw in his last days and prophesied that the city would always be threatened
by fire, flood and feud. The ruins of the city are seen in Kumrahar. The
remains are housed in the Patna museum. Unfortunately nobody seemed to have the
time or inclination towards Buddha even in the museum. Politics is all that one
gets in the city, again with the warning not to venture out alone in the night.
With much relief, we headed towards Vaishali. The vast
stretches of fields overflowing with vegetables all through the drive took away
the discomfort of broken roads to a great extent. Because of being a part of
the Ganga basin, Bihar happens to be a very fertile state. Buddha taught Ratna
Sutra in Vaishali and women were ordained in the sangha for the first time
here, starting from Buddha’s foster-mother Gautami. At Kutagarshala vihara,
Buddha gave his last discourse, and declared the imminent mahaparinirvana.
Ashoka has built a Stupa to mark the spot. Vaishali is also known for Amrapali,
the famous courtesan, who invited Buddha to her house. Amvara, the neighbouring
village, is the site of her mango grove dwelling. She gifted it to the sangha
and joined the order herslf. This was the best part of the trip for me as I
felt a strong sense of déjà vu… so much so that I guided the guide through the
thicket along a mud track right upto the point where Amrapali lived. A well is
there where her house must have been once. Needless to say that the guide was
suitably impressed, as this spot is not a part of the regular tourist circuit,
so very few people know of it. Buddha’s favourite disciple, Ananda attained
nirvana on the outskirts of Vaishali. A hundred years after Buddha’s passing
away, the second Buddhist council was also held in Vaishali.
We left Bihar at Vaishali and entered Uttar Pradesh in
Kushinagar. Kushinara, as it was known then, was the place selected by Buddha
for his mahaparinirvana. After his last sermon at Vaishali, he came here. On
the way he stopped at Pava, where Chunda, a metalsmith, gave him his last meal.
On a bed, prepared by Ananda, under two Sal trees, Buddha attained mahaparinirvana.
The Mahaparinirvana temple enshrines a statue in that posture. On the seventh
day after the mahaparinirvana, Mahakashyap lighted the funeral pyre at
Mukutabandha vihara. Remains of the stupa can be seen. In fact more than the
Mahaparinirvana temple, it is here at this stupa that one gets a sense of peace
and a strong desire to meditate.
Kushinagar is close to the Indo-Nepal border and we crossed
it to reach Lumbini in Nepal. There is a custom check at the border, so it is
advised not to carry much luggage with you. We stepped across the border
straight into a sardarji’s dhaba to have a breakfast of choley-bhature! Lumbini
is the sacred site of Buddha’s birth. A temple complex houses the tank where
Mahamaya had her bath before delivery. The Sal tree and the sacred stone slab
are present at the exact location. Ashoka erected a pillar, Rummendei pillar,
to mark the place. Hardly any tourists are seen here. The locals come to the
tree and seek its blessings and when their wishes are granted they come back to
tie a flag on it. None of them seemed Buddhists.
Back to Uttar Pradesh, this time to Kapilavastu. Buddha
spent the first three decades of his life here. Ruins of the palace can still
be seen. We spent some time roaming about the ruins, imagining the grandeur
that young Siddhartha must have left behind… so powerful must have been his
urge to find the truth…
Our last stop was at Sravasti, near Kushinagar. It was the
annual monsoon retreat of Buddha for 25 years. Jetavana vihara built by
Sudatta, contains the ruins of Anandakuti and Gandhakuti, where Buddha stayed
and expounded the major part of the Tripitakas. The vast lawns of the vihara
and the ruins transpose you yet again to Buddha. A few monks scattered here and
there complete the picture. It was in Sravasti that Buddha performed the
miracle of levitating on a thousand petalled lotus, causing fire and water to
leap out of his body and multiplying in the air, in response to a challenge
from six non-believers.
We were back to Kushinagar to
catch a train for Delhi; tired physically yet refreshed mentally.
Thursday, 9 July 2015
Sweet Smelling Solutions
We were living in England and I
was suffering from a chronic backache compounded by chronic fatigue and going
through a kind of vicious cycle – one problem leading to the other and vice
versa. Being married to an allopath had its advantages of receiving full
medical attention, but I guess my problems were very stubborn and would just
not get resolved. So I took a break and flew to London for a weekend to visit
my aunt. Without wasting any time she pushed me to go in for aromatherapy
sessions.
So my first meeting with an
aromatherapist took place in a lilac-coloured room in southwest London.
Christine Westwood had practised aromatherapy for three years, having trained
under Robert Tisserand. She was also on the council of the International
Federation of Aromatherapists, the governing body of aromatherapists in UK
setting standards for various training schools.
Her treatment began with a
questionnaire on my physical condition and diet and then followed a refreshing
massage. The sessions began with a thorough back massage using geranium and
bergamot oils, an uplifting combination – good for anxiety (and oily skin).
Concentrating on my back she pinpointed a very knotty area where stress had
apparently been building up for some time – areas where the muscles had
absorbed stress turned very tender during the massage. Face down on the massage
table; she put me through what can only be described as a physically refreshing
and mentally uplifting experience.
Although Marguerite Maury and her
husband, a homeopath, developed the modern practice of aromatherapy in Europe,
after World War II, its origins lie in the annals of most ancient cultures and
traditions. Combinations of resins, oils and fragrant plants were used in
various forms for ceremonial, medicinal, or pleasurable reasons in most ancient
civilizations. Aromatherapy (as it is today) was actually stumbled upon at the
beginning of this century when a French chemist named Rene-Maurice Gattefosse
plunged his scalded hand into some lavender oil that lay nearby and found that
the pain of the burn was eased. Because he experienced almost instantaneous
pain relief followed by rapid healing of the burn, he carried out research on
wounded soldiers during World War I. Gattefosse’s research revealed that
essential oils could penetrate the skin and via extracellular fluids reach the
blood and lymph, which then transports them to the internal organs. In fact the
modern term ‘Aromatherapy’ was coined in 1928 by Rene-Maurice Gattefosse.
Decades later, another French medical doctor Jean Valnet, inspired by
Gattefosse’s research, published his own work in 1964, The Practice of Aromatherapy. In 1977, Robert Tisserand released
his book The Art of Aromatherapy and
was successful in capturing American interest in this ancient healing art.
Through Valnet’s, Tisserand’s, and other scientists’ work of the current era,
the healing science of Aromatherapy began to be more widely known in the West.
However, Ayurveda, the traditional
Indian medicine, has been practiced for more than 3000 years and incorporates
aromatic massage as one of its main lifestyle aspects. It is used to strengthen
and rejuvenate the body, as well as therapeutically to detoxify it. Aromatic
massage helps balance the body and mind, by increasing circulation to bring
more nutrition to the cells and helping to remove metabolic wastes and toxins
built up in the system. Essential oils used in the ayurvedic massage
depend on the person’s type (prakriti) and the ailment s/he is suffering from.
Aromatherapy is more of a
complementary than alternative therapy. It detoxifies the body, increases blood circulation, and
boosts the immune system and the lymphatic system. The release of stress allows
the body’s own healing process to begin. These essential oils can be massaged
into the skin, added to bath water or vapourised in an oil burner, to produce a wide range of therapeutic effects in complaints ranging
from all kinds of aches and pains and skin disorders (like eczema) to poor
circulation, digestive problems, rheumatism, sinusitis, insomnia and
depression.
Essential oils are the odoriferous
substance in the roots, leaves, flowers, bark and resin of plants. Some plants
contain several types of essential oils. The orange tree, for example, has one
kind of oil in the flowers, another in the leaves and a different one in the
fruits. Some oils are clear, others lightly coloured ranging from pink to
brown, green to yellow. The main constituents of oils are alcohol, aldehydes,
acids, esters and acetone. Any essential oil that is not pure and has been
treated in any way should be avoided, as its action will be different from that
of the pure oil. In addition, there would be an increased chance of allergic
reactions to such oils. All essential oils are easily damaged by light and
should be kept in dark bottles. It takes about one tonne of rose petals to make
one kilo of essence, which makes the essential oils used in aromatherapy
extremely precious and invariably expensive.
Most oils fall into three
categories: Top ones, which are the fastest acting and most stimulating and
uplifting to mind and body (basil and eucalyptus), middle ones, which are
moderately volatile and affect the functions of the body such as digestion and
menstruation (geranium and juniper), and the base ones, which are slower to
evaporate and the most sedating and relaxing (myrrh and sandalwood).
When inhaled, essential oils
affect our bodies in several ways. The essential oil component molecules enter
the nasal passages where they stimulate the olfactory nerve. This sends
messages directly into the limbic system. The limbic system, located in the
brain, is the seat of memory, learning and emotion. The inhalation of the
essential oils triggers changes within the limbic system which in turn can
stimulate physiological responses within the body via the nervous, endocrine or
immune systems. I remember my grandmother putting muslin pieces dipped in
sandalwood oil under my pillow before my exams, to relieve me from nervousness.
Local application of diluted oils
on various points is also effective. It provides relaxation (muscular) as well
as a physiological action through the nervous system. In addition, when applied
topically, essential oils can exhibit anti-microbial, antiseptic, anti-fungal,
or anti-inflammatory properties.
In a therapy session, the
aromatherapist will first have a chat to find out about your state of mind,
current dietary and exercise habits and any physical problems. Treatment may
take the form of inhalation, where a few drops of oil are put in a bowl of
boiling water and the healing vapours are inhaled. But generally, the treatment
is in the form of massage. The oil is diluted and massaged into the problem
area. Once having decided on the blend of essential oils the therapist will
massage areas of your body, mostly in regions of the head, including the face,
back and feet. The massage has to be performed on bare skin. Tiny quantities of
the oils are mixed with a pure vegetable oil, which is then massaged into the
skin. Due to the highly penetrative nature of the skin, the oils reach the
small blood capillaries in the dermis layer of the skin and begin their action.
The parts of the body untouched are covered with thick towels. A course of
treatment may require between 10 to 50 sessions.
Different oils are used for
different physical and emotional problems and the aromatherapist usually
employs a blend of two to three oils to suit the individual’s specific problem.
A few of
the popular aromatherapy oils are: Peppermint for digestive disorders; Rosemary
for muscular pains and as a mental stimulant; Sandalwood for depression,
anxiety and nervous tension; and Lavender
for headaches, insomnia, burns, aches and pains.
Somehow as I am growing older, and
studying more and more about the various alternative therapies, I tend to
remember my grandmother – she had a therapy for every ailment! It seems I will
spend the rest of my life trying to understand the science behind her prescriptions…
Social Anxiety
As a
professional dancer, Seema has performed before audiences of hundreds or even
thousands and never felt self-conscious. But this same woman gets tongue-tied
and shy when it comes to doing something simple like making a telephone call -
that she hovers around the phone for hours trying to work up her nerve to dial.
“I am convinced that the other person may ask me something I don’t know,” she
explains.
Seema suffers
from ‘social anxiety’. It is an extreme form of shyness or self-consciousness,
which is often irrational. Social anxiety can be broadly divided into four
basic categories. Performance anxiety
is one which a person faces while appearing on stage or speaking in public. Status anxiety arises out of shying away
from authority figures, celebrities or people who are especially well dressed
or attractive. Attention anxiety
refers to a situation where a person feels that he or she is getting too much
or too little attention in a particular situation. Crowd anxiety makes a person nervous about ceremonies like
weddings, funerals, formal parties or simply being amidst a certain group of
people.
There is
evidence from studies that shyness may be genetic to some extent. So
psychologists have consequently begun to think in terms of two categories of social
anxiety. The ‘disposition’ or genetic variety, which shows up very early in
life, appears equally in boys and girls. It is likely to manifest itself
physiologically (racing heartbeats, sweating, upset stomach, blushing), and can
also be kept under control with deep-breathing exercises. The ‘cognitive’ variety,
which appears at adolescence, is more common among girls, and usually manifests
itself in thoughts, for example “they must be thinking I’m stupid”.
It is believed
that parents can help by not labelling their children as ‘shy’ (and creating a
self-fulfilling prophecy). Parents should encourage their children to take
interest in performing arts, as it helps to nip the cognitive social anxiety in
the bud - the more drama, dance and movement they do, the less self-conscious
they feel.
The psychiatry
department of the University of Pennsylvania has pioneered the ‘homework’
approach for the socially anxious. The idea is to get the person to pay
attention to the actual situation that they are in, not to their cognitive
distortion of that situation. Clients are given assignments to tackle
potentially upsetting situations, such as striking up a conversation with an
attractive person in a bar. The therapist may even accompany the client to the
bar – and then provide the client with a reality check, forcing him or her to
evaluate whether the person at the bar has really said something to indicate a
lack of interest in the client, or whether the rejection is all in the client’s
head.
Similarly, a
person with anxiety about public speaking might be videotaped and then asked to
watch it. In many cases, the person is in fact more poised than she or he
imagines, and even where they are not, it is important to get them to realise
that one does not have to be totally charismatic and in control of every
situation.
Tuesday, 7 July 2015
Idyllic Ibiza
Unbelievable! That’s how our friends reacted when we told
them what we felt about Ibiza. They maintained that Ibiza is a place for the
young, for those who love clubbing, dance, music and the works… not for us! I
totally disagree.
Ibiza has two sides to it – one, the laid-back daytime one,
and the other, partying nightlife one – both endless.
Ibiza is a Spanish island in the Mediterranean Sea,
reachable by regular flights and ferries. I had read somewhere that you don’t
get to see many Indians in Ibiza, but that turned out to be a fallacy as well.
In our flight from Barcelona, there were two ‘honeymoon’ couples and a large Gujarati
family, all set to enjoy their holidays, just like us.
We hired a car from Ibiza airport and drove down to the
city, to the apartment that we had booked for three days on Figueretas Beach. There
are plenty of apartment blocks on hire and add to the charm of the place –
walking through the beach to buy the essentials, rustling up a quick hot meal
to eat in the balcony overlooking the sea, the sound of the waves lulling you
to sleep in the night… need I go on!
The beaches
The first day we just explored the nearby area – strolling
on the endless stretch of Figueretas Beach bordered by a palm fringed promenade,
listening to the birds and the surf through the setting sun. The promenade
comes alive with eateries and handicraft stalls in the evening. The weather was
clear and we could have a great view of the old walled town of Dalt Villa from
the beach.
On feeling tired, we just walked into a beachside eatery to
have dinner. Though the place is known for its seafood, my husband being a
vegetarian, we opted for sautéed Mediterranean vegetables. The Sangria was
great – I had no reason to complain! (Sangria is a Spanish drink made with wine,
cut fruits and a dash of brandy.)
Have car, will drive! That’s what my husband felt and we
started off on a long exploratory drive the next day. The weather was pleasant
with occasional drizzle and cool wind. The drive through the rural landscape of
hills, bays and cliffs, and lush green fields dotted with quaint whitewashed
houses, was nowhere close to the impression one carries about Ibiza! We started
with Las Salinas in the south and drove on to Cala Boix in the east. The
beaches were empty because of the weather, but we enjoyed walking on the brown
sands listening to the roaring waves. Incidentally, the brownish colour of sand
here is because of the Pine needles covering its cliffs. We had a lovely
freshly baked Pizza accompanied by Patatas Bravas in the beachside cafe of
Benirras beach in the north.
The heritage
Having gotten rid of the driving bug from our system, we
decided to explore the main Ibiza town the next day on foot.
Although better known as Spain’s hippest party destination, Ibiza
is also known for its UNESCO World Heritage Dalt Villa, a fortified town that
rises to a dizzying height on the sun bleached cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean
Sea. Cutting across the main town, we climbed up the steep cobbled street,
crossed the drawbridge and entered through a huge gate into the fascinating old
world charm of Ibiza’s ancient capital. We needed plenty of puff to climb, but
it was well worth the hike. There were plenty of places on the way to stop and
refuel ourselves! Amidst the winding alleys, Dalt Villa (means High Town) has
remnants of medieval walls, traces of Moorish and Carthaginian fortifications,
impregnable monolithic ramparts topped by a whitewashed cathedral. Gothic
buildings overhanging the cobbled stone courtyards, lively cafes and shops with
the local craftspeople exhibiting their wares, added to the charm. The
spectacular view from the high terraces was a bonus! We ended our day with a
hearty meal of Paella and Escalivada.
Trudging back to our apartment, we were tired but happy. The
next morning, while driving back to the airport, we planned our next trip to
Ibiza…this time with our friends!
When to go:
Ibiza’s
clubbing season runs from early June to early October. October to April is the
best time for a quiet holiday.
A Long Drive... To Manali
Whenever we need a break from our hectic work schedules in Delhi, we look towards the nearby mountains - any place that would be drivable by car and would be free from city sounds.
This
time we headed towards the Kullu Manali region in Himachal Pradesh. We started
off at 5 o’clock in the morning, with our cars loaded with, apart from our
luggage, lots of food and water. Our first halt (for breakfast) was after
Chandigarh, at a wayside restaurant (there are quite a few with clean toilets
on the way – look out for Verka milk booths for good milk and milk products).
Leaving Ropar and Bilaspur behind, we took the lunch break at Mandi, a quaint
town located at the junction of Kullu and Kangra valleys. They say that there
are around 80 temples in this town!
The
best part of the drive is through the Kullu valley itself, with the Beas river
flowing alongside, through the lush green mountains with occasional snow peaks
peeping from behind the distant ranges.
We
reached Manali at 5pm after the 12-hour drive. The journey was tiring, no
doubt, but on reaching our cottage, the breath-taking view of the snow-clad
mountains made us forget the aches and pains of the long drive. The waiting
cups of steaming hot tea also helped!
Exploring Manali
The
next day we went down to explore the town. A walk down the Mall road was very
refreshing and appetizing as the range of cuisine being offered was amazing,
from Italian, Israeli, Chinese, Japanese, Tibetan to German and the veritable Continental.
This was besides the regular Punjabi, Gujarati, Mughlai, South Indian and the
chaat pakori for people like me.
For
the shoppers, there were Tibetan goods, local hand knitted woolens, Buddhist
items, Kashmiri embroidered clothing, Kullu shawls, caps and a lot of chunky
jewellery and knick knacks found in every hill station and in Delhi’s Jan Path
as well.
Beyond
the Mall is the Hadimba Temple, a four storeyed pagoda like structure built in
1553, dedicated to Hadimba, the demon wife of Bhima (one of the Pandava
brothers). The legend here says that Bhima married Hadimba here after killing
her cannibal brother Hadimb. Hadimba is considered to be an incarnation of
goddess Kali, and the image worshipped in this temple is a huge footprint of hers.
About
3 km north of the Mall is the old Manali. It is said that after the great
pralaya (flood) Manu first stepped on the land at this place. Manali is also
Manu-alaya or Manu’s home. There is a temple dedicated to Manu here, perhaps
the only one in India.
Getting Adventurous
Our
children booked the next day for adventurous activities. There were options of
rafting on the Beas and paragliding. The children chose the latter. About 15 km
north of Manali is the Solang Valley, where we went for paragliding. The
children enjoyed the exhilarating experience and I was happy chatting with the
Gujarati tourists.
We
could not leave Manali without visiting Rohtang. Because of the heavy snow in
that region the road to Rohtang Pass was damaged, so we could only go till
Marrhi. There were snow slopes and we had to wear fur coats, boots and gloves
(which one could rent). We could ski or just slide down the slopes on sleds.
The enterprising village folk had set up Tea stalls serving hot tea and bread
pakoras. Total fun!
The
next day we packed up and left Manali, heading for Rewalsar. On the way, we
took a break for lunch at the picturesque little village of Nagger, 13 km south
of Manali. It has a Nagger castle, built 500 years ago, now converted into a hotel.
What enticed me here was the Roerich Gallery, about 1 ½ km from the castle,
exhibiting paintings by Nicholas and his son Svetoslav Roerich. The ground
floor of the cottage is the gallery and the first floor, the living quarters of
the Roerichs. Peeping through the glass windows, observing their belongings,
one could sense the strong bond they felt for this place. Their glowing
landscapes and mountainscapes tell the rest!
The
journey to Rewalsar was tough, as the roads kept on winding and climbing at the
same time. The glimpses of snow-clad ranges were a help though, in breaking the
monotony of the drive.
Perfect Ending
The
Revalsar Lake is located well into the hills, so much so, that we could glimpse
it only when we actually reached it. It was well worth the spinning drive!
After quickly checking into the H.P tourism hotel, we freshened up and promptly
came out to explore the place. The township surrounds the lake, which we
decided to circumambulate.
Rewalsar
is considered holy by the Buddhists because Padmasambhava started his journey
to Tibet from here. He is credited for introducing Buddhism to Tibet. A
beautiful monastery is dedicated to him here.
This
place is holy to Hindus, because it is said that Lomas Rishi did tapasya here
to please Lord Shiva, who in turn gave him seven lakes in this region including
Rewalsar. These lakes are said to be formed by the waters of Ganga and Yamuna.
Next to the monastery are three temples dedicated to Lord Krishna, Lord Rama
and Lomas Rishi.
Carry
on walking and one comes across a large gurudwara dedicated to the Sikh Guru Gobind Singh who is said
to have spent a lot of time at this lake.
No
wonder the place had such immensely soothing vibrations… a place where you do
not require to meditate consciously, meditation happens!
After
spending the night, we headed towards Delhi the next morning, promising to come
back again. Such trips not only act as de-stressors, but somehow act as humbling
experiences as well.
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